68' Custom Twin Reverb

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68' Custom Twin Reverb

Postby Spunky99 on Sat Apr 23, 2016 7:07 am

I bought this amp new in January 2016. It came looking fine but took a hard hit in shipping.
I had to replace a broken reverb tank cable and the transformers were loose. Otherwise it look fine.
After correcting the minor issues it seemed to work fine for about 10 minutes and then zero output. As if I put it on standby.
I cycle the standby on and off and it is fine again for 10 minutes or so and it happens again.
I play at volume 2 or 2.5 and have tried both channels and the volume and tone settings. Once it goes quiet it affects both sides of the amp.
Once it started after flipping the Bright switch but only one time.
Tubes were swapped and same thing.
I spent a long time looking at solder joints and cable connectors and all the circuit board traces. I am NASA certified solder and the solder joints look beautiful. The circuit board has been removed and there are no stress points and no cracks or anything to indicate a hot part. Everything looks exactly as it should.

Could this just be an intermittent standby switch? It switches nice and crisp like the power switch.
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Joined: Sat Apr 23, 2016 6:49 am

Re: 68' Custom Twin Reverb

Postby Spunky99 on Tue Apr 26, 2016 2:12 am

It was the internal speaker jack. I cleaned it and adjusted it so that the external bypass blade was positioned properly and was working correctly.
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Joined: Sat Apr 23, 2016 6:49 am

Re: 68' Custom Twin Reverb

Postby Dean Jr. on Tue Apr 26, 2016 8:13 pm

Imho, that amp should have been returned. Enforce the warranty. Do NOT put a solder iron to it regardless of your certification. IF you do and that can be seen, the amp is yours without any recourse.
It is too late for this advice, but imho anyone who can work on these amps should never buy a new Fender. A SFTR would have been much preferable, ime.
Dean Jr.
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Re: 68' Custom Twin Reverb

Postby Unit_1 on Wed Apr 27, 2016 6:54 am

I've had a boat load of brand new switchcraft jacks that needed to be polished/cleaned on the switch plate to get rid of grounding noise problems. I now routinely clean them and check continuity before using.

When faulty they look like checking a circuit with a capacitor for resistance since two plates next to each other creates capacitance.

I use a small strip of 1000 grit emory paper to do this. Fold it in half so both sides are grit facing outwards and then gently pry the switch plate open *just enough room for the emory paper*, insert the paper, release the plate and pull the paper back and forth a couple times.
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